Walk into any store and you’ll see racks and racks of colorful clothes. Whether they’re vibrant blues, muted yellows, or dark, forest greens, you can find an article of clothing in almost any color you can imagine.
But where do these colors come from?
A Quick History of Fabric Dyes
Most articles of clothing you find today have been dyed synthetically. Synthetic dyes are created from chemicals such as mercury, chromium, and lead. These dyes produce the bright, vibrant colors that we are primarily used to seeing and wearing. However, before 1856, all articles of clothing were dyed with natural substances (like plants, minerals, and insects). Back then, all clothing was made from natural fibers (for example, cotton, linen, wool, and silk), and these textiles could absorb the colors of these raw materials extremely well. Unfortunately, as European imperialism grew, so did the pillaging of other countries’ resources, and the rich variety of colors became increasingly scarce.
Enter Synthetic Dyes
The invention of synthetic dyes marked the beginning of a revolution in the textile industry. No longer was it necessary to rely on dwindling natural resources and complex dyeing processes to achieve a variety of vivid colors. Instead, petroleum-based chemical dyes could be cheaply mass-produced to reach a broader audience much faster. Fast forward to today, and natural dyes have been largely replaced in the fashion industry by their artificial counterparts.
So why are natural dyes making a comeback?
Natural Dye Resurgence
In recent years, as the fashion industry moves in a more sustainable direction, both mainstream and independent brands have readopted natural dyeing techniques. This revival comes as a result of the negative environmental impact of synthetics. For example, approximately 17%-20% of global water pollution is a result of synthetic dyes. The toxic runoff that the dyes produce can destroy aquatic ecosystems and poison the drinking water of local communities. Additionally, their non-biodegradable nature contributes to long-term pollution. In addition to destroying the environment, synthetic dyes have also been known to pose serious health issues. Prolonged exposure to the toxic chemicals found in the dyes can cause skin irritation, allergic reactions, and even more serious issues like mutations and cancer.
The Downsides of Natural Dyes
While significantly less harmful to both the environment and people, natural dyes are by no means a perfect solution. As I mentioned before, they require complex dying processes and access to natural resources, which can get extremely expensive due to the time and labor involved. Additionally, there is very little recipe standardization, which can make recreating colors and patterns previously achieved very difficult and time-consuming. These dyes are also more delicate than synthetics and can fade or change color over time or from sun exposure.
So now that you know, what can you do?
Making Sustainable Fashion Choices
Unfortunately, the limitations of natural dyes have deterred most clothing brands from using them, making them inaccessible to many consumers. However, if you are looking for ways to shop more sustainably and have the means to do so, consider these tips:
- Buy secondhand and thrift. Shopping secondhand is the most accessible way to reduce your fashion footprint. You keep garments in circulation longer, and prevent them from ending up in landfills. Browse thousands of pre-loved, sustainable pieces on Madilyn James!
- Support sustainable brands. Take the time to research and shop from brands that incorporate natural or sustainable dyes into their garments, like Eileen Fisher and Stella McCartney.
- Get creative with DIY. If you’re more on the creative side, experiment with dyeing your thrifted and vintage finds with food scraps and flowers to achieve one-of-a-kind, colorful results.
Although it would be challenging to completely replace chemical dyeing with more sustainable methods, having the knowledge of what goes into your clothes can help you make a more informed decision.
Meet the Author
Mackenzie Brown is a fashion design major at Parsons School of Design who lives and breathes all things art from illustration and photography to textile design and sculpture. With a deep love for fashion history and sustainable style, she believes great design should honor both creativity and the planet. Her passion for breathing new life into old pieces fuels her writing, where she explores the intersection of fashion, art, and conscious living.
